Pierpaolo Piccioli Takes Over as Creative Director at Balenciaga

May 20, 2025

Balenciaga has officially named Pierpaolo Piccioli as its new creative director. The announcement came from Kering, Balenciaga’s parent company, just a few months after Demna Gvasalia was appointed to lead Gucci.

In an exclusive interview with Vogue just hours before the announcement, Piccioli spoke openly about his new role and what this next chapter means to him.

“This is a new moment for fashion, and you can change the rules only from the inside,” he said. “I think we can deliver a new image of fashion that is about assertiveness, humanity and intelligence, which is not granted very often. Balenciaga already exists in a community. I want to embrace that community and the spirit of Balenciaga, to make my chapter in the same story.”

Piccioli’s appointment is effective from July 10, right after Demna’s final couture show for the house. While his official start date is set, it’s understood that he will begin working on his first collection ahead of time. The first Balenciaga collection under Piccioli’s creative direction will be unveiled in October, according to the release.

Francesca Bellettini, deputy CEO of Kering, shared her confidence in the new direction: “He is one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today. His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the house.”

From Demna to Piccioli

The shift from Demna to Piccioli marks a significant moment. Their creative styles are very different, which may point to a shift in Balenciaga’s broader strategy. Still, Piccioli doesn’t see this as a sharp break. He sees it as a continuation of a legacy.

“I want to embrace the past because I feel that it’s very important to have respect for what Nicolas Ghesquière and Demna did before me,” he said. “The story of Balenciaga is a story of designers that I respect. This is more a passing of the torch rather than a game of chairs, and I feel very lucky to be a part of it.”

Piccioli and Cristóbal Balenciaga

Piccioli also shared a personal connection to the house’s founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga.

“I come from a very small place, as Cristóbal did, and understand that doing a job you love is a privilege,” he said. “Cristóbal was delivering himself through his job. If you think about his silhouette, his shapes, he did creativity as a culture and was always disruptive.”

Photo Credit: Balenciaga

How It All Started

Raised in the seaside town of Nettuno, Italy, Piccioli studied literature at Sapienza University of Rome and later interned at Brunello Cucinelli. After graduating, he joined Fendi, where he worked with Maria Grazia Chiuri. In 1999, both joined Valentino as accessory designers. They became co-creative directors in 2008, after Valentino Garavani’s retirement and the exit of Alessandra Facchinetti.

The duo had a successful run. Their couture shows stood out, and their designs, including the now iconic Rockstud shoes, made waves in fashion. When Chiuri left for Dior in 2016, Piccioli took on the creative director role alone. His first collection that October showcased his bold and romantic style, described by Hamish Bowles as revealing “the unbridled romanticism and fantasy of Piccioli’s singular vision.”

A Strategic Fit for Balenciaga

During his time at Valentino, Piccioli proved himself not just as a visionary but as a skilled couturier. That’s a major advantage for Balenciaga, which returned to couture in 2021. He also showed he could bring a modern edge to a heritage brand. Speaking with Vogue’s Luke Leitch in 2011 about how he and Chiuri handled Valentino’s legacy, he said, “We keep the language but change the attitude.”

This kind of approach could serve Balenciaga well, especially since the brand has a deep archive that hasn’t been fully shown or appreciated. In September 2024, the house held a special exhibition at Kering’s headquarters titled “The Subtleties of a Dialogue.” It was the first time archival pieces from founder Cristóbal Balenciaga were displayed alongside designs from Demna.

Behind the Business

There’s also a business layer to this story. In 2012, Valentino was sold to Qatari investment firm Mayhoola for €700 million. Then in July 2023, Kering acquired a 30% stake in Valentino for €1.7 billion. The deal allows Kering to purchase the rest of the brand by 2028. At the time of that acquisition, Piccioli was still leading Valentino. François-Henri Pinault, chairman of Kering, described Valentino as “a unique Italian house that is synonymous with beauty and elegance.” Valentino generated €1.3 billion in revenue in 2024, just slightly behind Balenciaga.

Balenciaga, on the other hand, is part of Kering’s “Other Houses” division, which also includes Alexander McQueen and Boucheron. Though the company doesn’t break out sales figures for each brand, Morgan Stanley estimated Balenciaga’s sales reached €1.66 billion in 2024. That’s a big jump from the €360 million recorded in 2015 when Demna first took over.

Still, the brand hasn’t had a smooth ride. Two controversial ad campaigns in late 2022 hurt its reputation and revenue. Then came the global luxury slowdown. But signs of recovery are starting to show. “Balenciaga delivered robust growth in leather goods, fuelled by the success of recently launched handbags,” said Kering CFO Armelle Poulou during the group’s Q1 earnings call. “But the house is not immune to weak traffic conditions.”

Balenciaga has also made some strategic leadership moves. Nathalie Raynaud, who helped drive the success of top-selling handbags like the Rodeo, was promoted to deputy CEO. Gianfranco Gianangeli stepped in as CEO this January.

What’s Next

Piccioli’s appointment feels like a confident and trusted move. It could help Kering re-centre after recent leadership changes. Demna’s shift to Gucci caused some investor hesitation, but Piccioli’s track record and vision may help settle concerns.

His first collection for Balenciaga will be presented during the Spring 2026 Paris Fashion Week. He will debut alongside other high-profile names, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier and Demna at Gucci.

Looking to the Future

CEO Gianangeli summed up the move with optimism.

“His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, building on the house’s bold creativity, rich heritage and strong culture,” he said. “With the expertise of our teams and the dynamic creative energy that has historically driven Balenciaga, I look forward to this next chapter.”

Despite the pressure, Piccioli sounds calm and ready.

“I had enough rest, so I’m ready to start.”

Over to You

What do you think this new direction means for the future of luxury fashion? Which fashion house do you think is making the smartest moves in 2025? Let us know what you think in the comments. We’d love to hear your take.